SAANZ Conference 2021

Chair: Heidi McLeod

1:30pm - 1:50pm
‘85% PURE?’ – THE GI FICTIONS AND OUTRIGHT LIES OF WINE AOTEAROA NEW ZEALAND
Peter Howland

In 2017 the Geographical Indicators (Wine and Spirits) Registration Act came into force. This act dictates that locally produced wines must ascribe to the 85% rule with regard to grape’ variety, vintage and geographical origin (e.g. Sauvignon Blanc, 2021, Marlborough). Geographical Indicators (GIs) are modelled on the wine appellations of France, Italy and Spain, and are designed to generate value by assuring consumers of the place-of-origin and production integrity of wine.
I argue that GIs are a form of legal fiction - or more cynically, a form of legislated lying. Firstly, the threshold of 15% of different and unspecified grape variety, wine vintage and region of production is hardly insignificant, especially in wines that are vintage (e.g. Sauvignon Blanc) or variety (e.g. Pinot Noir) sensitive. Secondly, and perhaps most importantly, as ‘truth claims’ – based predominantly on the seemingly fixed geological, varietal and temporal ‘facts’ of terroir – the 85% true/15% not true dialectic creates another moral space whereby playing fast and loose with the notion of appellation-orientated wines is deemed both ethically and commercially warranted. This is evident in the legal creation of wholly fictitious vineyards and wine estates that are now a significant component of New Zealand produced wine.


1:50pm - 2:10pm
LITTLE IS BIG: HOW LITTLE ACTIONS MAKE SMALL IMPACTS AND BIG RIPPLES, THE TARANAKI LONG LUNCH
Heidi McLeod

Sharing the story of the Long Lunch from a research project on small-scale, regenerative food growing in Taranaki:

• An ethnographic, embodied description of the drama of having 100 people for lunch. Personal musings on the funding/research deliverable of a workshop to support active participatory research into regenerative food systems.
• Mixing food, people, Māoridom, and academia – a multi-disciplinary stage with a wide audience. Collaborative processes for shared knowledges and learnings.
• Imaginings and reimaginings – What were my aspirations for this event, what did I want it to deliver? Celebration, reflection, and engagement. What I planned, what worked, what didn’t.
• Ripples and coagulation – what happened after? What does it mean for the research? Momentum of event for participants. What does it mean for regenerative food systems? What does it mean for Taranaki?
• Pleased to meet you – relationships in research, movement building, corporates and academia. How a grower was subsequently asked to showcase their produce, organic development of relations and synergies, creating an environment and context of connection and cohesion – what I do, helps you?! Who came and who didn’t come?

2:10pm - 2:30pm
‘BUYING LOCAL’ IN POST-PANDEMIC AOTEAROA NEW ZEALAND
Joanna Fountain

The Aotearoa New Zealand economy is facing unprecedented challenges from the COVID-19 pandemic sweeping the world, and is causing severe disruption to the primary sector. For exporters, supply chain delays and increased shipping costs are impacting cash flow and profitability and causing logistical challenges. For smaller primary producers reliant on domestic distribution, restrictions to the hospitality, tourism and event sectors has left many questioning their future viability. These smaller producers will rely on strong domestic support for their financial recovery. Early indications and broader trends suggest there is reason for optimism. Over the past two decades, global trends in food and drink consumption have seen small scale, local and ‘authentic’ food products prioritised by many consumers. Media reports, market research and anecdotal evidence suggest that the pandemic has intensified this ‘buy local’ trend, as consumers seek to support the economy at a time of crisis, but has also highlighted significant food security concerns for many New Zealanders. Informed by academic literature, media commentary and recent research, this paper outlines three consumption trends apparent during the pandemic – framed as “Getting back to basics”, “Valuing local and locals” and “Focusing on well-being” – and considers what role ‘buying local’ could have in ensuring more resilient – and equitable – food futures in Aotearoa New Zealand.